T-budding or shield ... stock photo by Thomas Alamy, Image: 0424720

grafting and budding Flashcards | Quizlet

Best Time to Graft Orange Trees

Late spring to late summer, when the bark slips easily (meaning it separates cleanly from the wood). This is essential for successful budding techniques.

Time window (depending on climate):
May to August in most subtropical and warm temperate regions.

Best Grafting Methods for Oranges

1. T-budding (Shield Budding) – Most Common

Done when the bark is slipping (actively growing season)
Insert a single bud from the desired variety under the bark of the rootstock
Tie with grafting tape or rubber strip

2. Chip Budding – Alternative if bark isn’t slipping

Useful earlier or later in the season (cooler temperatures)
Involves slicing a chip of budwood and inserting it into a matching cut on the rootstock

? 3. Cleft or Whip Grafting

Less common in oranges but possible in early spring before new growth
Used for topworking an established tree

Additional Tips:

Use healthy, virus-free budwood (scion material)
Choose a compatible and disease-resistant rootstock (e.g., Carrizo or Swingle citrumelo)
Ensure good contact between cambium layers (essential for successful union)
Protect grafts from sun and dehydration

Certainly! Here's a step-by-step guide on how to perform T-budding on citrus trees, particularly orange trees, along with visual aids and recommended tools.

Step-by-Step Guide to T-Budding Citrus Trees
1. Select Healthy Rootstock and Budwood

< data-end="385" > Rootstock: Choose a vigorous rootstock with a stem diameter similar to a pencil.

Budwood: Select a healthy bud from the desired citrus variety. Ensure the budwood is disease-free and has mature buds.

2. Ensure the Bark is Slipping

< data-end="675" > The bark should separate easily from the wood, indicating active growth. This typically occurs in late spring to early summer.

3. Make the T-Cut on the Rootstock

< data-end="763" > Vertical Cut: About 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.

Horizontal Cut: About 1/3 the circumference of the stem, intersecting the top of the vertical cut to form a "T".

Gently lift the bark flaps with the knife tip.

4. Prepare the Bud (Shield)

< data-end="1065" > Cut a bud from the budwood with a thin slice of wood attached, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.

Handle the bud by the petiole (leaf stem) to avoid touching the cut surface.

5. Insert the Bud into the T-Cut

< data-end="1244" > Slide the bud shield under the bark flaps of the rootstock.

Ensure the bud is fully inserted and aligned with the T-cut.

6. Wrap the Graft

< data-end="1415" > Use budding tape or a rubber band to wrap the graft site, leaving the bud exposed.

The wrap should be snug but not too tight to avoid damaging the bud.

7. Monitor and Aftercare

< data-end="1601" > After 2-3 weeks, check for bud take. A successful graft will show signs of growth.

Once the bud has taken, cut back the rootstock above the graft to encourage the bud to grow.

? Recommended Tools for T-Budding
To perform T-budding effectively, consider using the following tools:

< data-end="1935" > ?Grafting Knife P11: A specialized knife designed for precision cuts required in grafting.

?Fujiwara Garden Grafting Knife: A durable and sharp knife suitable for various grafting techniques.

?Old Bear Grafting Knife 937719LN: A traditional grafting knife with a comfortable grip and sharp blade.

?FUJIWARA Garden Grafting Tool: A versatile tool that can assist in making precise cuts for budding and grafting.

?Citrus Twist Knife: While primarily used for garnishing, it can be handy for making delicate cuts in grafting.

Visual Guide
For a visual demonstration of T-budding on citrus trees, you can watch the following video:

This video provides a practical walkthrough of the T-budding process, which can enhance your understanding and technique.