因为疫情一再搁置的南部游终于成行,心心念念的美食也得以大快朵颐,吃喝玩乐一周,几乎要乐不思蜀了,乘着记忆犹新,赶紧记游一篇。
新奥尔良众多美食里,我最爱炸虾三明治 (Po-boys),连着两天的午饭都是它。第一天去的是 The High Hat Cafe.![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/qCxPdkafgcDzrny7FhRvDnF_sXfxsuAWEP91ApVlwQTNuOwC1wE9ngkNFapfvBegYoduRSfLX7cBiVUeVPpl0ybdnyrKm1JYDFmWqOoU1aGYC0EpZuekwZVpTRNu5kbcNS5U5gVf0wFa8i5Or1La-oA)
炸鲶鱼 (Fried catfish)。边上的三个小球是炸玉米面丸子 (Hush Puppies),嫌硬了点;炸鲶鱼外皮酥脆有余,肥嫩不足。虽然挑三拣四,但照吃不误,好吃啊!
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/7_j9Lyw0bZamZ-uEEPDs7mna6LTJIxTLdPbm3QOd5HP5XikNRF5_-zRbwFhtRL48ovh0B2xiDqNE06WOuamWzy6nw0j1a_FHLisrUwULNeLCpA_dN6whgOrgPUwCmBGzEmJypW1ly91fqt18yaAvspA)
四菜拼盘 (Vegetable plates with Cornbread, Braised green, Blackeyed peas and Mac&Cheese)这个不是素菜,我只看看。
另外一家叫 “拿破仑之家” (Napoleon House),在法国角 (French Quarter)。门口铜牌有简单的历史介绍,真伪莫辨:)庭院里有绿植,小喷泉,飘散的(人造)冷雾带来凉意丝丝,闹中取静的绿洲一个。都说 “新奥尔良没有差饭馆 (There is no bad restaurant in New Orleans.)” 确实。
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/7qUWSR4JnHfd8A_CsT1ELuc_XMIgU5gOBzz4OtP8KnNEzyGLXEggSrFWouoJfhyGqvcUE-S2b7hakAsuPsLnFbhWWLZzAp5oJ4AAv4rXgNnxDTO6oHvUPuu8jWdTy0jbo_goGAlB-AyRcMGLPWNqgeI)
庭院。
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/QAkfi6NbWc5kA80Y_hkfVA_dEzFPTrKO_91TvEQLqbTMcJbEJO93_b6x1caFIp6T5Q5x2TYMj8CTcTXWLUYT7M1nlLJt3Icr2KdZWrNXgAR-dZsXjy1IWDW-zDAsOzClHhYQy_9QU-OofNm1bDplscE)
菜单。
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/bWYm84BCc6_xY0f8iAmklmO9IRW8AjaNcF8NvO7aYQXIu8tX6SS8us1gOeOdDiTvmrNLO-ZalaOB_bYq0aFPMwFiIbRq_CDnjy_8vLfhio2C3u1VB741LR8V10Sfgtp9vpbhdTXbjHyzVyyz06HfaJw)
很不巧,Muffuletta sandwich 的创始店家 Central Grocery and Deli 正在维修不开业,有点小失望。但两家比较,这一家也别有风味,尤其热奶酪香而不腻,极其入味。Muffuletta sandwich 以份大著称,看看这四分之一 (Quarter) 的三明治,是一人量!
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gCZ0irt1q2_PtCpOoA2RNt2X5Xagv_smAUl5Nle-rvVWEv7SipOUd77WEzZw8J9j0wRThCD7S-xvwXoYBIVhBHiaIcxIhhElXkqIAz3fsqZ8IOyeB2XQ3qYDvIqfFjNP_FMD8g4tLGxup_wB2TxcjI4)
炸虾三明治 (Po-boys),两个字,好吃!
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kK1qYl7QBWhQiT3GxsCvytKp0sDLwS6-GLf8Bon38XKlr5Hteq02ra7b-q45B6AP9UpzCrPfgpLtTcBFocPiVynbzdvarzy0-udOwsZmZf2Ur7oLzHfAZySH4M599lszJavqDvDrICTDKde74C188G8)
饭馆门口。
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/YC-5lJ01E77hrY6BABHQzjlPnFADCwQpl3aoU_tVKGp0GKqXBOwVuRkP42PLnnuMSxV6-E2QquyIGzMsgJnZc-AmnOoK9TU6yMlytDlzRjiVqiKxDOP1ZRjOItMc7qKI5V1W1jxIJlr4AIdGUTzwWA0)
到了新奥尔良,炸贝涅饼 (Beignets) 是非吃不可的。摆出游客的架势,老老实实光顾 Cafe Du Monde,品尝新鲜出锅的贝涅饼。
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/6P0fKREnyElm4sRSkHSrHoipnhLOKFty9YOi-wXzgDP07YTUq4L6-AfpILCO56YkD84FJk-mNvr0i49Ts6hm30752cn0eDI87s6csucIFoPZDeEsLPKxczyIKeeaOarf9t6fqVM9x1M16vUU-Dk3CZ0)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/O2A5IvmmRqVzPpVXq_3LiTAtLERLNS5MboZcwlGPlDp66TpL5zVyxLAYCdi8Dxo4wQLkDL9KJDZzzjnraAYaVYMGWzCY2UPy2ENNqBNfQeZsxZI-o904dZ1FXpoYj77VMBI_yxX7fjEZcbN_B1mMIFs)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/07zGDKv5pdFKe1hG1NVl1W6lCpB7NNncpSalJbI35CIE7Z1YrEMe8IiLDtNNsEOv30_DhFDWS0sHCL9W2lpHET06O10-L9aFHgoEBwWdoxvUWaolsMUXmFyrW5MbXmF81eS3iq6fMDVzMEZG2Excerc)
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/CQRsTPQyrUUw9Posajb3ZVkCShIAUJdYawmcZTlaE0xxLFp3odLuyL4j8m-YGWnJsZB1XLY0LAT2EuLBdyjeNtqRMuWGM4y1LVxRGhEuTfbuPN_yAz79AUaFE8Sq17WlRjmViQt0_BenLUPuOtG0HP4)
不过,最好吃的炸贝涅饼不在新奥尔良,在巴图鲁日 (Baton Rouge) 的 Coffee Call。他家的贝涅饼是细长的,像手指,叫贝涅手指饼 (Beignet fingers)。
Coffee Call 咖啡馆内景。
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/W8qKBD_V7FbKk1DbloXr8-pPadkKPehCDdTlhtccpKY6gV1_FyCOaCtK_o5S5WLYTN70TcUyABj7m8UA6H-SMnppPrBdTc8RXakp8-DCRBbIqIIm-ebjEhM0v2l85ReHTTMYNIdQnGibYC-awVsS9-Y)
炸贝涅手指饼和热巧克力,最好喝的热巧克力。
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/MulpV6Ato8tcrwm_X7139Fxx4ENtjHkDYGoCnEwlFuT58YMbRgjPVLzcIcd4v4Q_WJJGSIkMHNm8m36AUDSVXSfMARZ0xyE69rVwHP6pPkU8mRIIml6Q84CcZoALs5IWIw6N02e21wo4IbQK0IjTNPg)
到了巴图鲁日,怎么能不去 Chimes 呢?
开胃菜是鳄鱼肉,要了两份,一扫而光,小儿子还意犹未尽:)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/QS6F9RtmEXlfGciDrPcFXvauY_eI7GI6HgmfjGpDCFhJpcNviQC_CGJZNtTs8RFpq24RcttJshsWdsU-U3kf_f_An5WX_2NI1gigtQxDjXXvgCIflLSpXQ2Cu6USirnG3y1WoBz_AOdah1SsxNWd0VQ)
真正好吃的 Hush Puppies 长这样。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-syjrtomyl9Pz8Zcy9rqKJhJG3HUV4uLL4zAcf4hWp1Gu3hhAREdZEhNJIDI8YfAJJS5WY0TKenYb3D1d3_Q3kWTErzaJW9YZlGbxP503raZhSeyvucn_FQ14kWcsqDV8fSSiaJH7HgMDIJzCdEBm8U)
Red beans and rice.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/daIpsbtaMamknt5lX7Z2ebG1R8qQiZYOC40npc-c7iTS-FCAycTfW9WHfikDTNfkyf3NKCPWm_oDU2PznIkKtezAvV-r-4xSaV6WXHhE0-tA9gAiJUxPYAzfLFsJ6SUaLOG0FbaVRuw5mqsU615VweI)
Crawfish Etouffee.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/EzTG9mIfhogFSbNZttnRdRMe90-CxlXK19YMwPbggu7wz3WiKZZcYXcbCgF8XnWSc-ci9BgGBqMxT-yVDw76YtT7JKXaQjfUt0ilITeSNb2vuFGYMhaD812fUrELetsj_aGVSF_tw4P5PcEM3i5HFIQ)
炸物有炸大虾,菜裹虾,炸鲶鱼和 Hush Puppies。别的倒还罢了,炸鱼外酥内嫩,比哪里的 Fish and chips 都好吃,足以笑傲江湖:)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pkAn7h9EMxLtslfpZnken5OJEtcyX4uiwVIzuS252hD1qU92UU47WDcz0bpd60s4TpdOz34MQMUNNd2Z4ZnlAGplIz796nFuZjdk37jBZOsPumkkTS72WAqR_JqwwchhuSAOSCxtQdGdqINL_sJJ5gE)
最后,上一张饭馆外景。
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/JxwPCM0FGthgjT5lObABPUOf-FdGFX25bdp3yGOx7pF2r92M-ZfLyMmnR9RBSrJV1Pfy6a8ff9DyISENtFKhFKa3K2XeW7TXn-FUh1rQXyjIm1PTQdT2dK6rV3LjN5H20FKhJ8Jygb8LSgZo41OZDKY)
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