几年前,曾乘邮轮造访过号称“最后新边疆”(The Last Frontier)的美国第五十州阿拉斯加。记得当时已是8月下旬,正是当地的雨季所以几乎天天下雨。我们功课做得也不够,在几处停留港口差不多都是冒雨在城里转转了事。好在当时刚刚开始喜欢上邮轮,在船上吃吃喝喝、玩玩乐乐倒也其乐融融。在朱诺(Juneau)曾到门登霍尔冰川(Mendenhall Glacier)一游,第一次见识冰川,印象深刻。坐家是全球气候暖化的“信徒”,当然不可放过再次眼见为实的机会:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x9QKIHwK5bHdcfsNY8oFfN0AB7yAExsUAdUno-wLN5DL_X7fjTJSgTY7UdhP8u1IsU933AIkmLyAIzw4KPDZwSnUObDqNXhCFWncXuhjQqMv28spOVxwvI-RycmXr1HxWfsaj1JoaS1c6HG7ZMVyuR6dCw8eAHeZyS4BSGddDNOhMC0qOY5K_JLDxXFL24MN4iOajPJpesBWUxj82B237aw5OuFh6nCr_y3yHOCYnWBRIPxz226rouR5gqkeZ9V-vOXo7wJW6dB6EYAV0poAUe9gocMJWTPRJBpMRY5KXLymlT3ENKshaSgXOTM4kaqRQV_YSpMSMfQgF3bDiK4lUdZ0c69HAqUpdKPz5c3glt43HPnYMx9qta2KevvvIDG4ErB04JWZIQqAOBsD6JNMBYntUjTa4d5z3x4Iuw6Q-bB5AKapYZnOR9S7pAkSjD_O_IrG6qcVLHGIGO5y0R8rFXahFXyl9hf6smmXNjKdnKNEBsvvuf_sOPyMXIJoAqH-2W8IP4RYTIS7UabUOSbujLfDphg_lNZ2avMVEiUuemjTf1j6LHEjgQ4QANgFA2NhA_KjskLSprVkplAzYBbxQ1HvxcZJa-4=w1253-h834-no)
下图是网上搜来的冰川逐年退缩的照片;据阿拉斯加大学东南分校(University of Alaska Southeast)的统计,近年来门登霍尔冰川的退缩速度为每年1米挂零——厚度,不是其前沿的退缩(http://www.uas.alaska.edu/artssciences/naturalsciences/envs/faculty_staff/pubs/mendenhall_glacier_facts_2010.pdf)。这等于每年有4、5万个奥林匹克标准泳池的冰融化为水,所以想要看的抓紧时间:
![](http://glacierchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/mendenhall_thndr-view_1993-2010-680x339.jpg)
(照片来源于互联网)
少不得的一番合影留念,无庸赘述。下一站是去观鲸鱼。临走前领导记得上次在公园的一条景观小径旁曾见到过大麻哈鱼,一定要去看(我家领导是属猫的)。由于我们之前已经走了两个多英里去看瀑布,坐家和女儿都不想去了。但领导的话就是命令,还是走吧。没想到这个机缘给了我们与野生老熊的第一次近距离接触:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tETq6ZmPUsIb00NS5ZVoEjLPsV0bp-Zsd7Tq3yWiPmhebZVcntxzny5mrSRXJDti9WrVHa4Wj63ABOOXKa2EzrAnwdyTfE4I-_WVOKCwBREoyTl-MsT54tsAosX9cnjLyuBSr52_iYvb6Nz0vV_waRerBzqqHFiV3qzjzXCmcvBX40vVWq2GmJjcmOIVQC2678agaJnAs4gvw3RZtivOMjxGPYckSl9k6BilXlZroMcW8AMSly-6c-XhW6BhN2gzRVS_zuQhyBHxIDJbaBWNHezsqnjyvI-4zvbyhKNrplYvc1kGbSpp4lyEylutUzyqkzYCTFURB_3o6ueUfN62Cpq4vOzogaPL_rTFcv2Tm3ssjS8Bvt-2a6CPjI_oScVnhOFKW85G214H8iqwgHqwM199Y1RhW5jueeRv612pIj6xmwlvsO1WGpA59OrGpE5Y3ZrMpAPMFA9Gqix3M7iBvfbGYDNRD0_PoPhF3Ew6moK7NUNsteEXO6CeVIuSPXD9TBkkbrH-oiOiLspEPftnrX36VaJmNfJuLn7Alqa9iRkZgT2hH_DngBWRFvseKx5oEV999jB23l1T9PHqzfDy9XMWom-M6uA=w1253-h834-no)
您别担心,当时我们是在架在地面之上几米处的步道之上,两边还有栏杆保护。另外,这家伙好像是个素食主义者:但见他(她)吭哧吭哧大口地吃着生菜沙拉,把步道一边好吃的消灭光后又转移到了另一边。坐家和一众游客拿着相机咔嚓咔嚓可着劲儿摁快门,可这家伙就顾着吃,一个正脸也不给我们。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uAnmOjBtfcdOoNaP-wZnM15t3XviEjKdcXslS0eveJH-DA32n5vnRnidf5xPz558qEA1A-5b6YXJ3WSWl4x3BUZfGTqULPaLFS0gPrz0EUzf0vb3EMdpGg774LbG2C9AUdJfkRh7W_6zunYz8IbMOvq08loq8T9uoO7VrvazmZQujlGqYiD_ozvNG0_U3exw9jLano9FuJ9W2lg-uBGn0TgAyD4r0hDRTpPmjoxHCF87tHF2r8Ss4YBevEGS3-TAfIbcL5EXQDWu8UvhC4g53Mdn2pOYWe662hq710TkIIrYVa2C2e8iVfAOWEKsmgD9pFW1Ln9NYl-pH57h8o9e6GvCmj3mV7FWRw9zCxd80_E5qJuAZcqkvgaC2RmSQTAsC8SD2Hod-XCdEhAPU_JywWYvAwVe627oSgc8Z_BYjz_Uee1MgfaDn6cMHvS2u3KOjMpFLX4r8luQbnS7-JuuqeJ0hXt3q9nyg5EjA3Esgce0-j2vIVnW1zzPYMkZmWvieEqeL_Yk9U9X4Uv1BmCrOge_2mNb6olk51ZMIsuUBG8rLFPqji3DX2BcrMKuq0Tgbfj_igk1owJZm4lMvaTYoR_2jg90Z5E=w1253-h834-no)
观鲸鱼的发车时间就要到了,俺们就打道去了车站。等车上车开车过程一笔带过,实际上也确实没几分钟。没呈想车却被堵在了路口。造成交通堵塞的家伙是谁?这还用问吗,当然是吃饱喝足后散步消化食儿的熊大(还是熊二?):
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/__P3LNy_nc0Gq0VljsdgYwjgCGO8nM2Be8NiBs3TUp4G8A2Foa3_b_TiGAjb0LpjKOUmyhI67TvtxTK-orD9wK7fR75bvPrqAM8XKtTRIPfSMefdLkjeZ-bM96hAhzeZL3eW2OYnbHitYQppwX-Iz6LqKa8RdIdyj-deO8ET-2cXB5ALZNNXZF1Lq1xp7GjRHFdfKSFvBhHhyh0gH934qBtUtkA4ZbfsG9uxNPLiXExQs4gm5djH3gYer9fgIv7XVIlAyk7dOBZitSi2ZYeDAuWBFcgjCd2W7uatkeS3enhlGEpi9DnFuGmR0ZwkVpFygyMRQ3xRuwNonHMBN-RdlUUcDyxwDTe4lWRmARNHdJPjBIF6kSXX7H-Xmxz3f54OrD7dR1A8b3EF7kR9_nRNDUg3__HZkAX6hT1vZRuKpeiDGslMN9WDspgup2tslPhT2fA1HuoKFBJTXMM8ItUzrVrbbl2A__4FAV9xB7aPIlcUnE_wSPyPe4ZDRcymuUBwgGViY7NqlGwRmUOI27-Pwe0c1dvJEkDI0FI2VXY37a0fFQmM07kqnhCJAcnmEEsf6NyyY-VKXuq4WXZj-wWjhrPxNU_AAGM=w1253-h834-no)
终于,熊大进树林了,我们继续开车赶路。一路无话,上船开船,乘风破浪开向观鲸鱼水域。但看到梦寐已久的鲸鱼前,还有两位大角色也赶来迎接。第一位是这货:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4XbRQ6JS8_FX9RjVbmXjO0He9q6PDmOEvneQIbvXFI7A4PK0TpKjnEOUfIpGfmHdyUVmRfeYJ-ZEVQeGOfxpV-sZGCaVIPFUAfMYzWP0OYvJpntNFNFZZeXbNyAgGcI1_Cda0gpeJ2B8nlQB9W6u3otdpCGWKTn3aolCRyFEl_F14CTpoOYY6aMF7UjX99am5ovl-Tgefj8DYH43DSUIDUQv1hmiRKOJnKtSbsH_ZHtW6l9EgX5ltrhu_0vL-IC_oxHdUJb_gsrTaUQuLJfFJaTwX4O5_U2RKN_Iutp-C9Zbr_E_8f3SiDfnGFR87yU2qHpRBNDnfKlbTY1HS2JvBKW9IqhoG0mj6heI3XfwcQjllQM0IX2ya5X-YHFoNeyKlT-HB-o7MdlrI0YifSWxyqt-LoPuDANObHqYBCKijtnmt5MPj-UQ0F0XwmxoG3h_6dLS_hFdNqeWCsdq3lr4p6ZPp9mRFbqyt_wcFkISbxvRDA5ocLOUHOrfqFE2GktszefvNZJyMDqEWiA3_PHbolmftKvdpOC_fvZkH-vtxEXGEpEr0eclpNDzy5bfER5kIVwgq0efvBXHf_uBGHiFUM5FJHt6W3g=w1253-h834-no)
您可能会说,海狮算什么大角色?嗯,是坐家用词不当。但这下一位俺觉得肯定算:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ugVQV4vE76DEhCyo23O5bDYez1g7zJ4UWO8wkgEexmsLmMdqpbq7M_C9sOkQ4q6gJYDSgMe21HOfSQI726Q8EbzQClxe17VYNEYPVQrRiT06_wvwFn5GLePW9TlTkH2yaG611NQ7iaDkxgF1ARHN7O3-05XOpc_w_rYKlHTwbbxNaCUYO7u0LQIFXC5v5g3TE6ZWN1NFCfZ3uTa88nDvYPIVNPwbYdaMNK5PfffK7-hhShYg4-xyRglY9K_jJI672K1WLYVNkZz81voQ5XV49nIr_l9cSHO-AL5-11LT2fHQXxSwKAkh4CpYe-mgcs3LlRZ0F5eMxYhVn0rd-ATm8Dmd4Mhb4J5ZNV_g4N8MH9hD59FEJ487TTWw8oGz0WupM6Zgmee0GDwO_ul4lkjuQbM6oIkTuLVc503p_u1LiL_ou1LTsgykcdl3BnxxelZfHgw5brQfNFONXUCV0K82pc3NKt72vGmT-MQYqBLZoGR6dcbT6s6JV6udglEh6HtJFSreK7ODqQvG2NpixHpyDbY21ftk0TXcxAer8RtFprKMV9VUdhj_dc1-MJZ20wZPPlARG4MWcHQ7tKWdbdXCPxo3ASk5GY4=w1253-h834-no)
什么,没看清楚?再来张近的:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rNn3XC6c1PcQv6HWvEnaArz-BwPesjKQcL4X8Oio4-tRFKryAVucWbbspoifezJwj1DNdLI0hc3IaAwHk8wCKz49hYZVtirOCq5kvTPG-DmiVhcHAnmxMy52aJG-Wq5fERTXnx5fBO85SPPDcETyHAiSxqzDkZmjyxNvgW6zMn8RJzRfSsw-cdwZT8uSLvNa37zqvmTebg-mLcIc_ehn7A3zQHAG0R5pQ7vCuLLADWqCPxGqsNn4o2jfHXVjtdytRXoDg8tcoqfpsvgS22nygsydu9rFP_DyDnbN5bssrDVHzQu94AC_x9WS23Jd9Tnqamy4pYf_mu5_obrgw-2X4q3W_v8-Ye4dBVGW9h50NL-hJ-x1UIKt3fxMzZpAjetZ1fY9hzSRywMJGRbKviRpar0EY4fL36yTrbH2p13jSTdO7vlhf5oQGZ6aMydDul8qN37tdVH8f6ctCatIb94OvMWdNMxS7fPHUQQqO1SMQTB2LdqyJlfWwGh1jLhpYGK6FgXnyzGZZVM8NTNETCujvHPedtFy3xR2De2lLApvQi75JNE6DV7tJFBDWiB4I9u6J6G9XDQCNC8dHT7wVas60OEjNQ5gD40=w1251-h834-no)
还看不清?抱歉,土八路的装备不好,“炮筒”不够长。可俺觉得这是大名鼎鼎的美国国鸟——白头鹰,还是能认得出来的吧:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dWQCRGhtmYy3CP_IyHBXmuvKTdQbdY__V6kis2B5-UcdZ2zjG3uJ-BNHVBCMkOY4drJKJzcmpTmXzGdJNKpQ7y4BCGxI6QAEhBJs6W6u1eb5AWmM-n797aqy937l7a4EZGggqvc_CTnAX4X4-m78_nHgejiiyGA1sveHq1w8N6aec5j7nwFg3FKoc6f6TSXm2lKRud_J15E9vAMbrspZpVrTIM4VMghrtvlgH4xHhIodGqd-k3-wIFmqXYj5-v9xkhyJdrYe1pI_3GvWyGPM9itLCTvlW48x8MBVnvcIz9sz3nBv3dqrqq_9sZHKpsJc2aABASTSbF7F9fUCrBPXmnVIUPtugbTdFVtiaBM82U5VQH5I4bcUka_QaLS87FSgSQigOhI5paST1hDXzovQFmyh81X9oNmw1Rbo8cj0rWgAz8GEB43k_dtYftXVye7lBDFNNpcdeCPaqtlH7GP-dFbnw_2RQnVSx2WxJvXyi1aLXinqqVubmWE5YWrLg-u5F3X5TUDICeDsXvi9vCH52e98hfsFJ8i7uwZbJyeJQ_nV2IwdMexBWMNTolj4s4wwNwGlmlQklmo8SGPJWzcLa8LvBx_t1o0=w845-h834-no)
说道国鸟,有人知道阿拉斯加的州鸟是什么吗?嗯,确实没什么名,是这种叫柳雷鸟(Willow ptarmigan,念塔玛根,p不发音)的松鸡;
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5FL13EAnObD2dWC_7LyD8wdISXPtdw4wuljrALBsxnkDCdaxmB3bOJ0Mzuc8FBaKnyYhMSNKryvP-Mwa59l5An6c2RkcFZqQZcbAU5WtZlEGnOdSxbOfmBKj1I8yzCp8uZQbwJJGmG-dvrvr4qVOAm5FiO0ITZiMeV_h025C7jZ1nPTvn0MmlWk5eMGpUwrt0P3NximnZaurin4HYFlB3WCfMNLpkd3h2Eu_g-JTNzWTicxK884mpeVkBuPq6pFMwLCzFv_JfGK6kBNYKDAmgUcte3uyU5-WJ_nPw0Z_qqlKoESgpmP8ugRK_FxaOkQp4zM0FXP1rdZkP3Qd3n0ccyGp3mdHqotXt7Br8rks8XJN8jwTGHmUNVKEt1VGmP5NrGxkxISPt4xk1h59MH8qviHdZlgp38CDLYfYwlv0UIPz_TQRZDrRkZ7nuXY2UoDh8uMasQNqQ2rYIjMq0JRoA42Dnz3_jXa4knwuFSGLOc_lda4awYCJqLCFyOf9g7ouo5pMjZfu_wa_QNnR5rx8jIQSuXlHrU4z4PaNtpZVWZw7BtHmrxiEn2cW4pIo46s2SucsBp5pbKgJ7YP7eWDbLWs-dSSMTaw=w330-h220-no)
(照片来源于互联网,维基百科网页)
这种鸟中国也有,还被列为中国国家二级重点保护野生动物。但在这里数量繁多,据国际保护自然联盟估计至少有4千万只。您可能要问:“松鸡?什么味道?好吃吗?”抱歉这我可不知道。从美国佬们那个挑食的样子,大概他们也不知道。可坐家听说也有例外,还真有一个老美知道。
话说有个哥们到野外探险,在阿拉斯加的深山老林中迷路了。几个月后,终于获救。当被问到这段时间靠什么果腹充饥时,答曰:“塔玛根”。这可惹恼了众多的保护动物权利的斗士们(“吃鸡就算了,居然敢吃州“鸡”鸟?“),硬是一张状纸将之告上法庭。但另一方面,人权保护者们又不干了(“嘛玩意?人命还不如鸡命吗?”)。双方在法庭上唇枪舌剑,你来我往“打”了个一塌糊涂。各地民众也多有参与,各抒己见。几年后,终于是人命战胜了鸡权,吃州鸡老兄被判无罪。
尘埃落定后,吃州鸡老兄接受媒体采访。“正经”事问答完毕后,记者提出了最后一个问题:“松鸡什么味道?好吃吗?”
吃州鸡老兄:“和白头鹰的味道差不多”。。。
![](http://file32.mafengwo.net/M00/F6/03/wKgBs1ZcVV6Ab7arABW6OZ1V9v811.groupinfo.w600.jpeg)
(照片来源于互联网)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/to2BVYq_zrE9cdk6uTYzIzF1MhMAqY_AaKqbx1urXwJYRGCGlc2mYr97DV4pq__d0hO5EXC3GUHY8ixr4yGfDzC6MI1_eSHVB9gWvL2fh1OyofP9QcM114SdIhD6ELYTVMUmuQllfNGsh4J9gOO1GUIHzK7GO7oUmi7J1Hvw45QVX_JXn_vRz8wOP34mKJ-EPRgD-ETQFQh5ekoxDMKy8WmThdPO1EdZH6zVCNLJ8FW_n9bz_RihzbjtbvNasXq4Hs2Lw33LGXHx44FH4U0NrDsBT7MewgsUIfAJVUARR0GEYyMSPaFd7RDr4zZOzVWMFnTFykC1WeT0YxIBalWdzFsYCtqDrvDHtDpcBkoxJohuKefPoVBeSqBG5WOVm422bXklB1jZdFe0mA_77e4-2E54oESo0FIBFIHHqmT0RaajbNtaJDQOn_4LyL2zOcL8MlowflfrZnnnCATe28b2xnO6IPfheQ-MGmtMvTZtVZSen3ZhiuUPZQ5vg2x8kajKnNKEnESoVlUEWbj1_Uwxv3tvNrZgyi1EFWdaps7ebhkAqZgIsEToR14kQQLa3kC10YlMZLjBtrPKjnS5OBUXXEX8Wke0NsY=s120-no)
我去喝口水先。
2016年7月3日
北加州农田草舍
声明:上面阿拉斯加州鸟故事纯属道听途说,坐家对其真实性概不负责。读者引用可能造成的后果自负(包括但不限于,被动物保护组织起诉、被人权保护组织其实、听众笑到岔气、等)。
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